Etsch Tour: Day 5, Auer to Trento

Deutsch? Italiano?

Wednesday September 29

From Auer it was a slight downhill between apple orchards and vineyards back to the Etsch – or should I be calling it the Adige now? No, not yet. The language boundary is said to be Salurn, Salorno, another 15 kilometers farther. However, to judge by the language we had been hearing on the streets it’s not a sharp boundary. We were  already easing our way into Italian speaking Italy. This was sort of like seeing the mountains but not having to cycle up them; I could enjoy listening to this musical language but didn’t have to struggle with speaking it. My German is fluent, my Italian rudimentary. Tomorrow in Trento it would be put to a challenging test.

We veered off the bike path to visit Neumarkt, a wine growing village with pleasant old houses and arcades. Further down the road we stopped in Salurn, the southernmost village in South Tyrol. Again today the weather and scenery were magnificent and we felt compelled to make numerous stops for pictures, including some photo sessions where I wanted to try out my new, lightweight tripod to get pictures of us cycling together. This was nothing less than hilarious. I set the ten-second timer, ran to my bike, jumped on and we cycled off, hoping it wasn’t too soon nor too late for us to be in the picture.

We were looking forward to visiting the historical old town of Trento. First we thought it best to ask the tourist office for help in finding acccommodation in this busy city. Most hotels were full but they managed to find a somewhat pricey room outside the city center. After settling in, we didn’t really feel like getting on our bikes again today and riding through traffic to visit the old part of town so we put it off until tomorrow. Instead we relaxed and had an excellent meal with a good local wine in the hotel restaurant.

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3 Responses to Etsch Tour: Day 5, Auer to Trento

  1. Joe says:

    In some places In Italy the bike “roads” will end and leave one on the road with autos but I never had a single bad experience with Italian or Austrian drivers in 6 weeks of cycle touring.

    There was a bad stretch of on road riding north of Bozano/Bolzen (bit south of Ponte Gardena/Waidbruck) where the conversion of the old rail line to a bike “hiway” had not been completed in 2009 but even with lots of heavy traffic the motorists were just so courteous! Bravo to my Italian friends of the road!

  2. Joe says:

    Suzanne and Janos,
    I am so enjoying your trip report which is mine (which I have not written) in reverse! Unfortunately I was on a bit of a time sensitive mission from July 10 driven by a departure from Venice on July 19, 2009 back to the “Dark Continent” (USA). Long story short, I had pedaled from Venice to Trento via the Val Susana from Castlefranco and Bassano del Grappa earlier in my trip and by the time I arrived in Trento I thought I had died and gone to heaven because the Val Sasana was so beautiful. I then ventured off the the Adige Valley at Messolombardo and took the narrow gauge rail line up to the end of the line in the Val de Sol to Messana and camped at Ossana. Cycled back down and headed back north along the Adige then from Bolzen beyond Bressanone and into the Val Pusteria to the small town of St Lorenzo. I was completely taken by the Sud Tirol.
    After my daughter and 2 California grand children left Venice on July 10 I jumped the trains with my bike back to Brixen/Balzano and started up the bike path to Merano/Meren. I again was so impressed with yet another beautiful valley in the Sud Tirol. Reading your account leaves me wanting more. Thanks for sharing.

    C2Cin2006 (Joe)

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